Berlin Fashion Week

We’ve teamed up with Berlin’s DERZEIT newspaper (also available at Project No. 8, Dover Street Market, 10 Corso Como and Colette) to bring you snippets from Berlin Fashion Week…


Eva & Bernard
Nait Rosenfeld and Roey Vollman’s presentation was as discreet and unpretentious as the adopted Berliners. Against a forest backdrop, their models glided in, but before the audience had realized the show itself had started, the models were already sneaking back to their white pedestals. They repeated this theater a few times in variations of wool cardigans with leather pockets, high-waisted cigarette pants and a parka that I started saving up for the moment I saw it. — ANNE POSTRACH

Vladimir Karaleev
It’s normal to find a few people mingling around the entrance to a show before the doors open, but when I arrived at Vladimir Karaleev I was confronted by a veritable rugby scrum of people jostling for position. And the show did not disappoint. The draping was beautifully handled, with jersey and silk dresses hung delicately from the models’ shoulders. But what really impressed were the way layers of silk, jersey, wool and leather combined so effortlessly. A standout: shoulder jackets that would complement any look. — JAMES CASTLE

Sissi Goetze
As if she had measured him with rulers, Sissi Goetze’s man looks like he spring from graph paper. Inspired by Rocky, the Central St Martins graduate started at the widest point of the male geometry, creating a pointed shoulder on short-sleeved wool jackets and quilted coats. She continued with high-waisted pleated pants and straight shirts, a rigor balanced out by heavy sweatshirts and elastic waist bands. — MAREIKE NIEBERDING

Dawid Tomaszwewski
Although its title is Apocalypse, Tomaszwewski’s collection for women and men doesn’t feel like the end of time—more like a promising new beginning. In collaboration with the Berlin latex label Très Bonjour, the designer combined cool architectural lines with warm muted colors. Latex leggings were paired with nubby degradé sweaters, or straight ankle-length pants with tartan capes, to surprising and convincing effect. — SEBASTIANO RAGUSA

Lala Berlin
The first model out proved how showstopping floor-length skirts can be. She tripped, muttered a blasé “fuck” and got on with it; there is, after all, a touch of rock ‘n’ roll in everything Lala Berlin does. Patterns, prints, and colors were wild, daring, maybe even questionable. But getting it right means being off-kilter. It’s not here to please, but provoke and question common taste. Therein lies the strength of the collection. — SEBASTIANO RAGUSA

Reality Studio
Ali is a girl who likes to eat Turkish Delight. At least that’s how designer Svenja Specht imagined her for Reality Show’s collection, called, simply, Ali. Models walked to Asian-sounding music in small pointy hats and red, brown, and blue layers. Silhouettes were mostly long, covering all, while a Persian carpet motif made for the most consistent and interesting element of the collection. Whether Ali is Turkish, Persian, Asian or German becomes secondary; We’re all Ali. — MAREIKE NIEBERDING

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