Nicola Formichetti’s Mugler ride hasn’t exactly been a smooth one. Ever since he took on the creative director mantle at the French house, the press’s response to his shows has been lukewarm at best, despite a personal appearance by Lady Gaga and online buzz provided by Formichetti before each collection. A few days ago, the internet-savvy imagist pulled off this season’s marketing stunt by broadcasting live sessions of the show’s preparation.
But this time around, the clothes had the last word, as they should. Mugler’s men’s line is designed by Romain Kremer, one of the most interesting talents working in France today. Visually striking, cyber-world clothes are his forte, which can’t be said for his tailoring. But he’s obviously been working on this, as his new collection centered on geometric suits and showed a designer making progress.
Although the show had its fair share of glitter, nothing screamed shenanigans. The nocturnal wardrobe, dominated by somber hues, was carefully designed with a square and a compass. Jackets either sported rounded collars or morphed into capes. Nifty coats and jackets were softly cinched at the waist, giving men a slight hourglass shape.
Refinement was also palpable in the gleaming fabrics, which included plasticized and rubberized wools and cottons, and the kind of jacquard silk normally used for ties. The show reached its pinnacle when sparkling black suits came out with innovative shirt-cum-aprons. The matching brogues, a collaboration with Paraboot, are sure to rank among fall’s must-haves.
Now that Kremer has honed his tailoring skills, he should combine it with his funky sportswear, absent from this show. After all, it’s something he does well, and its sexual charge suits the house of Mugler.