It may be all sun and fun in Paris, but when it comes to fashion, drama always lurks beneath the surface. Just last week, industry veteran Suzy Menkes caused a tidal wave when she started her New York Times column with a rumor that Stefano Pilati might be replaced by Raf Simons. Despite a quick denial from YSL, the canard surged like a torpedo through the Internet, setting off a chain of reactions ranging from the intrigued to the incredulous.

But the show must go on, and at YSL it did. Whatever looms on the horizon, it’s evident that for now at least, Pilati is still very much the captain of the ship, and running a mighty tight one at that. The show opened with a seascape of foamy whites, navy greens, but it wasn’t long before guests found themselves anchored in a more tropical climate, one with hidden-treasure jewel tones, low-slung medallion belts, paisley-like prints, and sandbar platforms. Among the trumpet dresses and quirky swing coats were cowl-necked blouses (all sporting dangerously low backs) and A-line skirts with thigh splits. The tide may yet turn for Pilati, but we’re glad he’s still at the helm.

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