Although Lady Gaga was a no-show at Nicola Formichetti’s second outing at Mugler, a realization met with much disappointment, the collection opened with a video of the superstar admonishing “Don’t fuck with Mugler.”

The runway, too, was Gaga-free, unlike last season that saw the superstar dry-humping parts of the set design. For spring, if you can believe it, pieces were relatively demure with none of fall’s emphasis on latex and nudity. Formichetti presented a rather elegant range of sweeping silhouettes and wearable separates in nude and white, with insets of black glitter. There were the obligatory cut-outs, but in an innovative way, somewhat on trend with next season’s lady-like mode of dress—that’s lady with a lower-case L.

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