If JW Anderson were a song, he’d be a monster of a mash-up. This season, the 24-year-old has taken some of fashion’s most nondescript staples—gym shorts, button-downs, sleeveless jerseys—and transformed them into a mixed bag that remains stylish and wearable yet utterly his own.
Anderson’s canvas was a series of fairly uncomplicated shapes that were tweaked, inverted, and finally revolutionized. Anderson offered up a sporty aesthetic that at times seemed more spry Br’er Rabbit than fit gym bunny. He made track pants lean and tidy, swapped gaudy polyester for luxurious, lightweight silk, and imposed a no-holds-barred policy on color—the brighter, the better. Before long, other elfin-looking blondes were wandering the Portico Room in perforated vests and skirts, crossing and re-crossing the frontiers between menswear and womenswear. Other sleight-of-hands came fast and furious. Go-go prints, sheared jumpsuits, oxford shirts fashioned into a pair of drop-crotch pants.
Already a crowd favorite among menswear buyers and editors, Anderson already tipped as one of London’s bright youngest things. His appearance at this year’s LFW also included his second womenswear collection earlier in the week. In fact, both shows have been likened to a concept album due to their strong thematic parallels. Call it a mix tape for the spirited urbanite, who, like the designer himself, will always refuse to play by the rules.