In just a few short years, Christopher Bailey has established Burberry in the terra firma of international renown. Throw in a smattering of titles (MBE, two honorary doctorates, two British Fashion Awards) and it’s a wonder he can stage one of the most sought-after shows of the season and still summon the strength to hobnob with famous friends—Kanye West, Ben Kingsley, Anna Wintour—afterward.
Military skirts, epaulets, and tightly belted waists dominated the runway at Kensington Gore, but in lieu of army fatigues there marched some of the season’s hottest shades: mustard, aubergine, tumeric, sapphire. And while Bailey’s previous offerings have channeled the punk Glamazon (think snug corsets, studs, and a surplus of black), spring was a thrilling war-whoop of Aztec prints, handcrafted beads, raffia, and basket-weave knits, all swishing in rhythm to the rumbling echoes of Kill It Kid and Jeff Beck.
To this day Burberry is best-known for the classic trenchcoat, which here was artfully deconstructed into a spectrum of quirky, spring-friendly variations. A focus on outerwear saw another nod to the brand’s heritage; the slouchy parka was given the luxe treatment with soft nappa leather and textured prints, while cold-weather coats were supplanted by lighter, cropped bombers in a shuffle of bejeweled colors.
In true Ian Fleming fashion, Burberry has been the most digitized event of London Fashion Week, boasting a livestream, live tweeting, live blogging, and other neofuture what-have-yous that did well to break the barriers of exclusivity that beset the luxury market. It’s no surprise that the brand remained a trending topic on Twitter some twelve hours after the show wrapped.