Proenza Schouler
Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez are really getting the hang of the dramatic about-face. While last season found us in Navajo territory, this season the designers turned their attention to the mid-century cocktail lounge, mixing it with a rumpus room, shag carpet and all.
The show opened with a few short suit options, a modern approach to tailoring that felt welcome after a week heavy on skirts and short on suiting. The duo displayed a cool confidence in eel skirts and striking mustard prints that were sharp and clever, especially in contrast to the deluge of runny florals that have been so prevalent in the spring collections so far.
The designers latched onto the asymmetry trend with artfully arranged tops and patterns, while mixing 70s and safari motifs to great effect. The Prada element of unusual sexuality featured prominently in more eel skirts and bra tops paired with A-line raffia skirts. It was a strong collection, if not entirely practical, further cementing Proenza Schouler as an influencer of New York Fashion Week.