Rad Hourani’s disciplined, dark, dangerous approach to clothing isn’t for everyone, but what he does—and he’s made what that is entirely clear over the past few years—he does very well. His modus operandi is to work with just six mix-and-match pieces and a nearly exclusive black palette (gray or white are sometimes thrown into the mix). For his RAD label this time, however, Hourani slyly, slowly introduced a new color, blue, beginning with navy, then cobalt and finally sky. Stone-faced male and female models looked ready for battle in armor-like belted tunics, leather vests and jackets, denim kilts and leggings.

It’s easy to see that Hourani has a very specific customer in mind, but at some point you can’t help but wonder if his winning formula has staying power.