Without the usual scrum of paparazzi or a demi-celebrity in sight, a coterie of editors and sartorial vultures gathered on Barneys’ eighth floor to devour Alexandre Plokhov’s second collection under his own name. Since shuttering his infamous Cloak label in 2007, Plokhov has earned a devout, if not cult, following for his impeccable tailoring and Soviet-soldier-gone-Goth look that has been revered and copied. (Remnants of his CFDA-awarded line are coveted on eBay).

True to his roots, Plokhov revived those minimalist virtues for his eponymous label, which now includes both men’s and, for the first time, women’s. A welcome contrast to the avalanche of color and prints seen elsewhere at Fashion Week, Plokhov’s stark simplicity seemed fresh. Models standing on a spare, almost sinister set with the only pop of color being a rubber cone orange silk sheath—presumably not part of the all black, white and gray palette. Color was not the point.

Each self-contained and unhurried piece, from a cropped motorcross jacket to a fitted leather dress with zipper detail, showed that Plokhov has not lost his touch. Lean silhouettes and sleek asymmetrical tunics brought to mind a ‘90s Berlin street vibe, while canvas uniform jackets echoed the Cloak sentiment with armor detailing and military undertones. The most significant addition? An ankle-grazing kilt, which made us wonder if Kanye West will be rocking a skirt to Paris Fashion Week. If the rapper’s reported love of cult fashion is any indication, Alexandre Plokhov might find himself in West’s next verse.