Those expecting a return to vivid color after Alexandre Herchcovitch’s uncharacteristically subdued fall collection were greeted instead with muted pastels in pale peach, barely-there lavender, robin’s egg blue, and hazy yellow. But what the Brazilian designer lacked in brights he more than made up for in sparkle. Baroque crystal and beaded patterns were embroidered into chic Jackie O-style skirts, jackets, peplums and shift dresses. Shapes were inspired by the ‘50s and ‘60s, and cut from stamped linen that recalled wallpaper or—in the best way possible—grandma’s sofa. But lest things get too pretty, the ladylike shapes were subverted with unfinished hems and frayed, pinking-shear edges.

While some of the jackets and long-sleeved pieces looked a little heavy—like a big Christmas present wrapped with a giant red bow—the playful dresses with their layer-cake stripes of fabric and beading proved absolutely delicious.