The Zero woman never goes for the obvious. But for spring, designer Maria Cornejo added a subtle sex appeal to her intentionally awkward and, according to the show notes, “almost dorky” proportions. Languid sack dresses fluttered from behind, an ultra-relaxed jumpsuit turned to reveal an open back, cutouts exposed slices of skin.
Where the cuts enticed, the prints intrigued. What at first seemed like traditional fabrics were actually digital prints, created from photographs taken at Paris’s Musée du Quai Branly, an ethnographic museum showcasing indigenous art from around the world. The counterpoint was a veritable rainbow of sizzling crayon colors—scarlet, clementine, yellow—balanced by assertive shades of blue and rich neutral oatmeal, ink and chalk.
The collection was full of Monday-through-Friday offerings, including boxy suits in black leather, piped with shocking indigo and draped dresses and skirts that appeared to dangle from thin belts.
For the collection’s every mood the Cornejo woman has the perfect accessory: a man in a suit to match. For the boys, the looks ranged from creamy, collarless and vaguely monastic to fiery orange-red and blue-and-black with a touch of ’80s mod.