Now that athleticism is the uncontested trend at the New York collections, you would think Yohji Yamamoto would offer his capable take on the mix of sport and fashion. Well, the designer is always one to defy expectation, which may be why this season Y-3 felt more classic Yamamoto than classic Adidas.

Yamamoto opened the show with flamenco ruffles on the simplest of pieces, like a black jersey cutaway T-shirt with a little shoulder flourish that felt fresh. Looks like slouchy vests and sheer checked gossamer dresses were signature Yohji, along with a few surprises like a men’s black-and-white checkerboard suit.

Plaid came out yet again this season, but this time it was about grunge. It worked in sheer plaid tops with a contrasting plaid skirt/short combo, but a few looks veered too far. Are we looking at an eccentric urban woman or an overly styled Nirvana groupie?

If you’re a follower of Yamamoto’s time-tested look, then there was nothing out of the ordinary at Y-3 today, but not every show needs to push boundaries. Sometimes you’re just fine in your comfort zone.