So far, two giant themes have emerged from the New York collections: sport and color. And VPL designer Victoria Bartlett hit both right on the money.

Perhaps having maps on the brain, her focus this season seemed to be a lesson in geology. While VPL’s familiar sportif, body-con silhouettes—i.e. bandeaux, bike shorts—were here in abundance, this time they were much more layered, with open-back tees, draped tanks, sheer sweaters and hot red-orange neoprene suiting, perhaps reflecting the composition of the earth’s crust. The lava color continued in banded skirts, resin rope necklaces (courtesy of Orly Genger by Jaclyn Mayer) and a winning “cartographic” print, as did a desert beige and a beautiful jungle green, adding to the eye candy.

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