The unlikely pairing of leather and linen dominated United Bamboo’s spring 2012 collection, which opened with white hot pants worn with a black jacket and wedge heels. Speaking of jackets, blazers came out in countless incarnations, from a sleeveless two-toned version to tuxedo-style in cream with contrasted cuffs and lapels, while trousers were wide-leg, harem and high-waisted.

Black, white and neutrals permeated throughout the show with barely a hue visible, save for a shot of orange and the models’ light pink lips. But lest you think it was a somber collection, quite the contrary. Subtle details including oversized kerchiefs, bows as belts, shoulder straps, and contrasting collars added an air of playfulness.

A smidge of color came mid-way through the show in the form of three silk dresses, though each in prints too distracting to crave. Our favorite look? An update on the waitress dress in white and blue cotton, which we’ll be coveting through the long winter.