On schedule for fashion’s obsession with all things ‘90s, the house of Helmut Lang is out to reclaim relevance. First came its monster Fashion’s Night Out bash, followed by its first runway show in five years and the first since Lang left the house. The doom metal soundtrack and Derelicte-style staging were firmly rooted in the previous decade, but the label made a move into the 21st century by livestreaming the show.

Designers Michael and Nicole Colovos hit all the expected notes: draped layers in crisp black and white, killer-cut jackets and exposed midriffs, complicated necklines, asymmetrical hems, mega platforms, and pops of canary yellow. The only thing is, in the six years without the maestro, the look has become more Wang than Lang.