The long, flowing silhouettes from Rick Owens’ spring women’s collection followed us into menswear this season. And while we’ve seen many skirts in his men’s collections before, the message has not been as assertive as it was here. They ranged from Owens’ signature thigh-length skirts to long floor-sweepers. Where the girls brought to mind a coven of friendly witches, the boys resembled religious cult leaders—or Grammy attendees of the future.
Some of the dresses, especially those in a burlap-like raw silk, recalled Caravaggio peasants, while others in crisp poplin could easily be sported by Kid Rock on the red carpet, with the mirrored wraparound sunglasses—a bona fide hit at the tills—adding to the glam effect. A suite of three in a row was undoubtedly a smirking reference to the traditional bridal section of a runway show.
But one mustn’t be distracted. The real message here was the tailoring. Owens showed a range of blazers in a variety of cuts and inviting fabrics. Some, in an oversized boxy cut with vents that sliced through the back, revealed halter tops worn underneath, themselves a visit from prior seasons. Others blazers in overlaid chiffon played with gender dress codes the way that Owens loves to do. And still others in shrunken seersucker gave us a sly take on the American prepster. The shoulders were sharp without being showy and the lapels razor thin. A series of sleeveless graphic knits toward the end of the show had a deep throb that coursed like a low chord progression.