At Henrik Vibskov’s spring show, the runway stage at the Lycée Turgot was segmented into four rooms, which meant the models had to open doors to walk through each. A few minutes into the collection, four trench-coat-sporting men—in high black socks, blacks shoes, the binocular glasses, and berets—somberly took their positions and started rotating the installation as the models circulated within it. The manually operated revolving door was all the more amusing with models wearing bonkers glasses, three tiers of black lenses that seemed to combine binoculars with some kind of science-nerd prank, an I’ve-been-peering-into-a-microscope-so-long-it grew-directly-into-my-face look.
Also on parade were more than a few well-behaved schoolboy looks, loose shorts paired with crisp button-downs finished with knee-high socks, as well as slouchy graphic knits, the occasional cheery floral print, flashes of parking-cone orange, hallucinatory weaves reminiscent of Missoni’s signature zigzag, and, for balance, some classic slim suits. A few of these were adorned with puzzling wooden structural accents, as if Gepetto had gotten into the design studio.