Givenchy’s speedy rise to the top of the men’s fashion game has turned into a flat-out gallop, a fact made clear by the swaggering front row line-up that included NBA sensation Dwayne Wade, the ubiquitous Kanye West, and Usher, hoisted up on this fall’s platform sneakers. Besides, only two weeks after their arrival in stores, the brand’s Rottweiler T-shirts have already become uniforms among the trendy Paris set.
Riccardo Tisci has shown an extraordinary ability to churn out must-have pieces and spread a gospel of sports, sex, urban chic, and comfort. Now that this solid foundation has been laid, he feels freer to venture into new territory, which this season meant ditching his somber references and embracing a bright, sanguine attitude, a message effectively summed up by Pump Up the Jam, the infectious 1980s anthem blaring on the soundtrack.
For spring 2012, Tisci once again offered his devoted customers everything they crave, and once again it was based on prints, this time tropical flowers reworked as thorny abstractions echoing the spiky earrings that pierced the models’ lobes. The stylized flora—inspired by a trip to Rio—appeared on tights, slim pantsuits, caps and roomy sweatshirts, set against white and pale green, sometimes covered in sequins. Tank tops sported cutaway backs while the designer expressed his obsession with his-for-hers garb through flared, pleated kilts. Plastic flip flops and key holder necklaces completed the laundry list of must-haves in a knockout collection that confirmed festive abstract prints as the trend for spring.