Miu Miu

Although the audience was filled with Miu Miu-clad young starlets—i.e. Mila Kunis, Hailee Steinfeld—Miuccia Prada rewound the clock to Joan Crawford in the 1945 film classic Mildred Pierce for inspiration. In this way, the collection felt more Prada than Miu Miu in its subtle, modern take on retro. Shoulders were broad in a series of yoked blouses neatly tucked into pencil skirts with a draped bow over the hip. Contrast collars were large and flat on mutton-sleeved coats with nipped waists, as well as on dresses covered with subtle flower prints. Floral and swallow prints gradually became more beaded, sequined, and embellished as they moved into evening wear.

Lengths fell slightly below the knee to reveal bare legs in glitter shoes and metallic-suede shoes-boots with heavy bent heels. While the sparkle was more typically Miu Miu, the style was perfectly suited to the era. The girls carried soft clutches with bold hard-frame closures that looked like super-sized coin purses in plush leather, satin and even sable. The fur was also used to frame the sleeves on a series of gray wool and embellished crepe dresses, and then again as a slightly less flattering cummerbund twisted over the hips.

Some of my favorite looks were of a more minimal, sportier nature, worn with baseball caps pulled over to the side. But it was the matte-red mouth along with glittery gold and rounded cat-eye sunglasses that completed the femme fatale look.

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