Fave Five…

Now that Fashion Month is over, we bring you our picks from the Paris and New York collections, a mix of big names and small…


PARIS

Céline: “Céline has joined the rarefied ranks of collections that determine which way the trend blows. In her short time as creative director, Phoebe Philo has turned the house around and never disappointed…”

Haider Ackermann: “Attending Haider Ackermann’s packed show was one of the more captivating moments of this landmark week. This collection was clearly a litmus test…”

Alexander McQueen: “Proving to be an unflinching creative chief, Sarah Burton brought all the poetry and pageantry of her former mentor to a fall collection, her second full outing, that was so hard and soft, so dark and light, it was hard to tell the difference…”

Lanvin: “Everyone loves Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz, and everyone wants to own one of his silky creations at some point in their lives—any odd color will do…”

Rick Owens: “While creating this collection in his studio bunker, with Liza Minnelli playing in the background, Owens spoke admiringly of Charles James, the 1940s punk couturier known for his architectural and hyper-structured gowns…”

NEW YORK

Proenza Schouler: “A dizzying array of digitized Navajo blanket patterns walked the runway, recalling treasured trinkets collected on family drives through Arizona. But this was no cursory romp through a litany of cowboy motifs, but a compelling ode to pre-Columbian craftsmanship…”

Theyskens’ Theory: “Tout New York gathered for Theyskens’ latest outing, his first for Theory since assuming the role of creative director in October. An expectant air was palpable…”

Thom Browne: “One by one, each model walked up to the altar boys, stood as they undressed her, then circled the room. Beneath the robes, Browne’s aesthetic came to light, starting with his classic cropped suits in gingham checks and plaids…”

Alexander Wang: “Models appeared in double-breasted blazers with padded lapels, sparkly lurex leggings with metallic shoes, and coats that start in mohair and finish in satin as if the yarn has been spun into gold…”

Robert Geller: “It seemed like all of New York came out for Robert Geller’s collection at Exit Art, echoes of the designer’s cultish past as one half of Cloak. Geller, however, has been showing his eponymous men’s line for years, and this might have been his strongest outing yet…”

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