Céline has joined the rarefied ranks of collections that determine which way the trend blows. In her short time as creative director, Phoebe Philo has turned the house around and never disappointed. This time she sent out a collection once again rooted in minimalism, but as sleek as a Jaguar—and I mean the car. It was a smooth and elegant drive through fashion’s excesses, disregarding all superfluous details for the gentle lines of a leather car seat. Even the wood-panel print on simple shirts, skirts and trousers suggested a fine, polished dashboard.
There also seemed to be a subtle equestrian reference in the cut of some of the coats and the fitted trouser with leather side panels that zipped open over the shoe, as well as two sweatshirts with chevron color-blocking reminiscent of a jockey’s top, and slim white jersey roll-neck tops worn with pretty much everything. A sixties beatnik vibe came in the form of turtlenecks that framed a side-swept ponytail, to the purity of a dress with black leather underarm insets and a striking cocoon-shaped orange felt coat. Speaking of coats, each one was a spectacular example of simplicity, from the oxblood crackle-vinyl Crombie with matching side-striped trousers to an army green collarless coat with 3-D lapels and a high open belt, which was more reminiscent of those glorious coats of Helmut Lang in the 90s.
The real standout was fur, in a patchwork of colors; one fur coat had a single terracotta lapel. The minimalist Lang influence continued with a simple white top with contrasting black sleeves, as well as in the a single pale pink look, a trouser and matching shirt with an oversized buttonless front placket. Influences and inspiration aside, the precision of the clothes was firmly modern and suited to the speed of life today, as was the simple rectangular zip bag, the perfect carrying case for an iPad. Thinner, lighter, faster.