To music from Swan Lake, Ann Demeulemeester delivered one of her strongest collections in years, and reclaimed ownership of a style and spirit that has been embraced, adopted and adapted all around the world. In her expert hands, she sent out a series of black swans, each more magnificent than the last. Slim black leather leggings and boots were the foundation for a series of coats and military-style jackets and vests with detachable lace-up leather peplums and lapels, their whipstitching derived from flight or parachute suits.

Demeulemeester completed the look with leather gauntlets and wide cartridge belts filled with single black quills in place of bullets. Fur alternated between high-sheen shaved shearling and long combed goat hair that seemed light as a (black) feather as it cascaded down floor-length coats. Finally, a long, billowy parachute dress suspended by a cartridge belt practically took flight as it floated down the runway.