Undercover

Recent Undercover collections have been synonymous with some pretty outlandish presentations and installations. But this season, the concept reflected something more introspective. A tiny baroque pink mirror inside a taupe felt pouch was placed on each seat, arranged in a series of ovals throughout the space. It was the smallest, simplest of gestures, which translated into a series of denim jeans and skirts, felted jackets and jumbo ribbed knits, cut up and patched back together. Gold metal sequins aside, there was something humble in the color palette, mostly somber blue and beige, with a hint of pink or a slither of red leather on a great oversized T-shirt dress in felt.


Although the idea of wearing the inside on the outside, or mixing tailoring with knits, are neither new, there were some charming versions here. Particularly, an off-white satin jumpsuit with the zipper running horizontally around the waist and a bell-shaped wool-felt skirt with the back tucked up at the waist to reveal its paisley lining. Besides a curious blue satin bomber jacket with cats embroidered on the back, there were nice utilitarian combinations of denim mixed with leather and a short canvas dress with a delightful burst of blush marabou pushing its way to the outside.

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