To say that Anna Sui adheres to a formula each season isn’t a snub. On the contrary, her fealty to a familiar aesthetic is most welcome. Sui’s aversion to trendiness enables her to exist in a sort of Fashion Week vacuum, immune to the vagaries of heels or hues or hemlines. Witnessing her riffs on certain staples—tunics, patterned legwear, baby doll dresses—is a perennial pleasure.
Sui hewed close to her bold, boho-glam roots again for fall, weaving her latest Ballets Russes-inspired narrative around shades of lavender, pumpkin, eggplant, and acid green. The latter appeared in jacquards, sequins and graphic florals, preceded by a succession of vibrant black and cream prints donned by models in clusters of three. A magpie, late-60s aesthetic prevailed, seen in burnout velvet separates paired with furs, or a twill dress and appliqué vest combo.
Fall’s ubiquitous parka, here glimpsed in metallic camo on Coco Rocha, added a touch of modernity to the retro collection. Speaking of standouts: what to make of the feline hat-hood hybrids? We’re still not sure, but needless to say, a little whimsy goes with the territory chez Sui.