Despite the frigid temperatures, New York Fashion Week shaped up to be an unseasonably festive affair, which goes to show that fashion packs are as resilient as snow dogs. But the action was just as jam-packed on the runway, with a directional first round that could set the pace for a knockout season. Here’s a round-up of our favorite looks—okay, trends…
Nope, you’re not still hungover from the Theyskens’ Theory bash. Designers simply went dotty for the spotted, sending out every imaginable permutation of the pattern, from subtle hosiery to complete head-to-toe madness, à la kooky Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama. Think less 101 Dalmations and more Op Art redux. Our favorite incarnations came from Marc Jacobs, whose masterful spot-on-spot compositions were, well, spot-on.
The Lengths They’ll Go
Designers are going to great lengths to push plummeting hemlines next season. And though it solves the chilly knees in winter predicament, it might present some mobility issues (we don’t recommend braving the subway with anything involving a train). Still, there were some options to tempt the daring, such as Rodarte’s prairie maiden gowns with matching duster coats, perfect for harvest feasts. The Row’s more prim and austere cocktail lengths had a Hitchcock appeal. There was also Thom Browne’s kaleidoscope of plaids that somehow looked right cascading to the ankle. But perhaps the most convincing came from the man of the hour, Olivier Theyskens for Theory, who proved that, in practice, he can whip up a smart, directional and commercial collection, which included some floor-length day skirts that looked positively necessary. For that, perhaps you could brave a tumble.
Call it a practical turn, or simply the result of an especially brutal winter, but the coat of choice for fall is the ever-functional parka. New York designers were having an outerwear moment, sending out re-imagined interpretations of the military staple that looked both classic and irresistibly new. The best options fell somewhere between Quadrophenia and Fly Girl puffer. Standouts included Alexander Wang’s parka-poncho hybrids that set every editor aflutter and Jason Wu’s truncated baroque version. But the most alluring came from Altuzarra, who channeled early-nineties Kate Moss with bias-cut tea dresses and army parkas. Classic Corinne Day, and it doesn’t get cooler than that.