Taking stock of the attendees at Theyskens’ Theory, we spotted freshly minted French Vogue editrix Emmanuelle Alt, a shades-and-fur-clad Marisa Berenson, and her seatmate, YSL muse Loulou de la Falaise. It wasn’t lost on us that while the show was taking place a stone’s throw from the West Side Highway, it could just as easily be taking place in Paris.
Tout New York gathered for Theyskens’ latest outing, his first for Theory since assuming the role of creative director in October. An expectant air was palpable, and all the bons mots buzzing through the crowd were quickly hushed as soon as the first model appeared, clad in a chunky knit sweater, satiny cuffed shorts and a full-length, gray coat slashed at the sides.
For the rest of the show, too, outerwear took center stage—linen wraps, military-style dusters, belted trenches, even a fur capelet—rendered in shades of ink, anthracite, and russet. A healthy dose of black offset the predominantly cool palette, lending the sportswear a whiff of modern gothiness. Silhouettes skewed both Edwardian and elegantly slouchy, eased by Theyskens’ penchant for insetting a triangular notch in the back of his jackets.
The takeaway? Theyskens is finding a comfortable niche creating covetable, neo-quotidian looks for the urban Theory woman. Come fall, the collection’s nostalgia-tinged rigor will doubtlessly beckon fans from Theyskens’ days chez Nina Ricci and Rochas.