Walking into Marios Schwab’s presentation felt chaotic, to say the least. Just as I had a moment to orientate myself to the throbbing music, the already dim lights faded into darkness and flashes, leaving the audience gawking at two models in melon-hued, glow-in-the-dark sequins. Was Schwab about to take an avant-garde approach to Halston?

Not exactly. But with a diverse cast of models, Schwab did take us on a journey through a disco jungle. The element of safari was there in whip-stitched coats and tops and a primarily neutral color palette of brown, olive, and cream. But what stuck out most were pieces where Schwab modified Halston signatures: a long, lean metallic-printed lurex number; an olive one-shouldered gown that came attached to a striking embroidered bra; and my favorite look in the collection, an ivory wool dress with asymmetrical slits that were just enough to lessen minimalism’s severity. Perhaps not the most cohesive of collections, but it marks another great effort from Schwab. This time around women have the option of stealing the spotlight in an ivory cashmere cape or glowing in the dark—literally.

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