The Academy may not be the only ones enamored with Hailee Steinfeld’s performance in True Grit. The Coen brothers’ Western vibe permeated throughout Yohji Yamamoto’s Y-3 collection—held in a subdued Soho setting after last season’s spectacle in the Park Avenue Armory—with uniformly braided pigtails, ankle-length thick wool skirts, and acoustic country music blaring through the speakers.

Toggle coats were on the agenda, but with a Yamamoto twist, namely reflective panels resembling electrical tape, while buffalo-plaid coats and dresses straddled cowboy and punk. In fact Yohji hit all the Western notes: leather miners’ caps, a striped men’s overall, and a patchwork jacket that felt more street than ranch. Even if his theatrical days are behind him—and we doubt it—Yohji is still a wanted man.