The late morning light engulfed the L-shaped runway of United Bamboo’s fall collection, offering those who stayed up too late the night before a good excuse to don their biggest, baddest sunglasses. Testament to the brand’s reach, the front row seated Sean Lennon and performance artist Vito Acconci, who furiously jotted down observations as soon as the music cued.

Jackets were the focal point of the collection, appearing short, long, in sheepskin, in wool, and every variation in between. These immaculately tailored coats came in demure colors atop schoolgirl-inspired A-line skirts and platform loafers. Gray tights were the norm; when they weren’t, brown and black leather thigh-high boots mimicked skinny pants and were worn under cable-knit cardigans and dresses. A continuation of last year’s fall collection, designed with Amelia Earhart in mind and intended for a spirited woman, the cold weather basics also included wool riding pants, orange and red plaids, and black mohair.

With Acconci’s performative note-taking, animated models tailing each other two or three at a time down the runway and Pete Kember, aka Sonic Boom, orchestrating the procession, it felt like some sort of fashion theater—in the good way.