Siki Im

Siki Im, in his fourth season since winning the Ecco Domani prize, showed his most polished men’s collection to date—by going native. In his show notes, he spoke of a meditation on tranquility by way of Native American spirituality and Mother Earth. Lofty, yet it worked, thanks to the live chanting and dirt runway, but chiefly to a collaboration with Navajo weaver Tahnibaa Naataanii, which resulted in a standout traditional Navajo wedding dress shown over a sharp suit. Adding to the indigenous vibe were fur-covered pigtails and heavy-lidded eye makeup that simultaneously referenced Indian war paint and a 90s Steven Meisel Vogue Italia shoot.

Siki always has fun with headwear and this season was no exception. His models sported wide-brimmed rabbit felt hats he called Apalloosa and Indian, exaggerated gaucho styles borne out of a collaboration with New York milliner Heather Huey.

The lapel-less double-breasted suit jackets hand-cut at Martin Greenfield were shown with drop-crotch trousers in heavier wool and fluid silks, some cropped to graze the ankles, others pooling around the shoes. Particularly appealing was a series of quilted tunics in navy, chocolate brown and gray. Outerwear included a boiled-wool bomber, a waxed-cotton trench in dirt brown, and a robe coat edged in quilted silk that was at once elegant and cozy. This is the nation of Siki Im.

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