It seemed like all of New York came out for Robert Geller’s collection at Exit Art, echoes of the designer’s cultish past as one half of Cloak. Geller, however, has been showing his eponymous men’s line for years, and this might have been his strongest outing yet.

The opening look, a jacket of almost animate leather in pale gray paired with brown trousers cut from what appeared to be suede, was so delicate it almost floated out on its own. And it formed the DNA for all that followed. Wrinkled leather, newsboy caps, and scarves placed nonchalantly around the neck had a poetic, preternatural, almost bohemian quality about them, balanced by the austerity of belted overcoats, gloves and wide studded belts.

An androgynous look on Andrej Pejic made for an added element of surprise, a nod to the models’ girlfriends in the audience or perhaps the next step in the broadening of Geller’s aesthetic appeal.