Jean Touitou
in 93 yes, for america that’s a long time, because we didn’t change the fixtures so much. ideally i’m into more advanced architecture now, since in america things change so quickly i left the non-architecture architecture there, it became some sort of landmark, i do prefer arch that is more warmer and thought about, this space is using the science of architecture, which is how to make a beautiful place out of a shitty place, and create a circulation of merchandise, it’s as simple as that, bleecker street situation is really inflated, i’m really glad i didn’t have the money or the will to be on Bleecker, it’s unaffordable rent-wise, when there were available places and i didn’t want to pay those prices, that’s all i can say, i was lucky enough to find this place on a side street, also i took over another place on w 4th and perry, in nyc it takes a while before you open because of permits, we signed that in sept it should open in may, regular store carrying the regular collection, what i wanted to do was have enough space to be able to do sell the denim, we sell so much denim that in the regular shops it pollutes the rest of the ___, people want those jeans and don’t have enough manpower or room to show your selection, so here there’s enough space to take care of jeans, and also we will sell some sort of a curated leftover of previous collection, we also have leftover fabrics we don’t know what to do with so we’ve been remanufacturing pieces from the past, from the archives, even if we’re not a huge company you always end up with something like 50,000 yards of fabric, i’m told there were some challenges opening the store because everything is considered an historic landmark in the west village, i’m sorry i won’t be able to answer that because i’ve been protected me from all that trauma because they know i have other things to think about, those quilts are very complicated, limited edition of 30 of each, you have to send them to india, it’s handmade, it’s a lot of work, we have a second round and a third round coming too, i might do a more pop project of quilts, more accessible that i will selling through the website, it’s crazy what they add, you put it in a room and it’s crazy how poetic it is, i’m not working on too many collaborations because sometimes collaborations are just fakes, i will continue to work with carrhartt in europe, because i think it makes sense, i’ve always been driven by workwear so i think i have expertise there and i think i have expertise in reshaping their shapes which are sometimes baggy, and i believe i have expertise in choosing fabrics that could be better quality,
would you want to take part in fashion week? no i’m sorry to say there’s too much corruption involved there, my days are very fyull doing what i’m doing, i don’t want to deal with model agencies, to have power conversations with model agencies make me sick, those people they talk to you as if you’ve known them for 40 years but you don’t know them, it’s a nice thing to be able to show properly what you’ve been doing for 6 months and i do feel frustrated for not doing it, but to tell you the truth there’s too much personal and financial investment to be done, i prefer to stay away and focus on the quality of the photographer i use, the look books are good and the campaigns have so far have been good, all i want to do is clothes and people buy those clothes, i could live without interviews, i do not belong to the celebrity culture and those things, i’m just happy to be under the radar, if people only knew what actresses are paid to sit in the front row at the shows in milan or paris they would kill people, if they only knew 10 % of what’s happening, those brand of bags who give away bags to young actresses and tell them in that restaurant on that day and go out of the restaurant at 15 past 2 and there will be paparazzi there and can you please hold the bag, this is a fact, it’s so managed, if you take a young actress it now belongs to common sense that once you’re starting to make it you reach the step of the chanel bag, it becomes like a rite of passage, it works, huge publicity for them, at some point what’s sad about it is the very famous chanel bag, style 55, which i really love, my grandmother had one and my mother had one, but i can’t see them anymore, they’re all over the place, it seems the people who run the luxury industry have lost all sense of luxury, they lost it, celine in ready to wear i think still has a sense of luxury, but for example you go to hermes and you ask the sales girl i want the notebook in boxcalf and she won’t know what you’re talking about, it’s a type of leather, if you work at hermes it should be in your veins, you know it, they just don’t know what they’re talking about, they don’t know the name of the leather and they only have ugly colors, i think luxury is disappearing because the luxury brand leaders are too fascinated by money, for me luxury is an exclusive restaurant where the owner knows you and it’s not so huge, also most of the time it’s made in china, the chinese can manufacture well, i don’t like it so much, i think they are the new fascists, oh yes, i have to face it everyday, since they have all this cash they do buy all the raw materials, the commodities, so if you want to buy cotton it’s all bought already, they stockpile the wools, the cottons and the leathers, that is in my industry, i don’t know about woods or milk, what i know is my trade, i know if i want to buy 10 tons of cotton from egypt the guy will say i’m sorry it’s all sold you have to talk to mr. chong, then they really raise the price, it’s very bad, it’s like a war, it’s like we entered a very heavy economic war, i’m not kidding, i do not belong to the conspiracy, i don’t know why designers want to show there with big spectacles, you go there and you get so depressed, there;s no culture, nothing, the streets are ugly, people do not know how to dress themselves, and you go to india and you find all the inspiring people to look at, you go to china and want to kill yourself, thats not very nice to say but those people are taking over the resources of the planet and we cannot do or say anything because they have all the cash, i’m a bit hysterical with china but i’m sure i’m right, i’m committed now to wearing scottish knitwear, i consider it like a political statement, sometimes it’s not even that much more expensive than chinese knits, and it lasts a lot longer, i hate most of those fast-fashion chains, what i love about them is the massive thing and those people are very gifted to do massive things, what i hate about them is they have no problems stealing intellectual property, and when they do it they are very clever, they decide to knock you off then they’ll trademark the design, if you have enough time and money yo usue and they no the trademark is ours, in the meantime even a small brand like mine we could spend 300,000 euro a year in legal fees and maybe make twice as much in gain, but you don’t want to spend such bad energy,
this archteict is silent and slow, all my managers compalins about thim,they say i know someone who can open the store in 3 months but i don’t change because every time i have a nice surprise, he throws something curvy (curveball), did i tell you about the ceiling? i just noticed there was an angle in the ceiling, he’ll say felts are you into felts, i’ll say yes and that’s it, a store can be beautiful and not be working as a store, it’s not obvious, when you want to buy something the light is not right or it’s impossible to get to the cashier,