Kris Van Assche’s shows usually follow a very specific formula. They start with black, hint at a crisp white shirt, morph into charcoal suits and outerwear, throw in a check or tartan, and end in a subdued color—sometimes navy, this time tanel (a tawny mix of tan and camel).
True to form, for fall he opened with a series of black-on-black looks, with white shirt collars barely peeking out at the neck. Last season saw the designer luxe up a plain white tee in pristine shirting. This time around he took on sweaters, creating enormous necks and drop shoulders out of black yarn or wool tweed.
When it came to suiting, cargo pockets hung from the jackets, which were buttoned or even zipped up to the collar. Boys with messenger bags slung over their shoulders strode out wearing suit pants tucked into sturdy boots.
The effect was reminiscent of Jedis, or, oddly enough, skinny mid-90s rappers who always bought from the XXXL section. A strange mix, perhaps, but both groups had the right idea. In freezing temperatures like we’re facing right now, a giant cloak or oversized sweater is an essential luxury.