Here’s a new twist in the epic tale that is Olivier Theyskens‘ career trajectory. As you well know, after editorially lauded stints at Rochas and Nina Ricci some years back, Theyskens was unceremoniously given the heel-less boot, if you will, for not offering enough “consumer friendly” options. Apparently they thought bias-cut feathered ball gowns and staggering platforms weren’t friendly. But it seems as though Theyskens has had plenty of options since leaving. As we reported, he was courted by an array of high-profile houses, from Valentino to Oscar de la Renta, to, most shockingly, Dior. But the young prince played princess and the pea with all of his suitors.
Now Theory has announced that, after designing a capsule collection set to debut in the spring, Theyskens will be taking over as artistic director for the highly commercial label, with his first offering bowing for fall 2011. Which means he’s gone from gothic romance to working-girl basics, and from Europe to America. Is this a case of Theyskens thumbing his nose at the naysayers, proving that he can offer sensible daywear without sacrificing his vision? Or is it a case of the highest bidder winning out?