Fave Five

Now that Fashion Month is over and we’ve had time to reflect and glimmer, we’ve picked our fave five spring collections from Paris and New York, a mix of big names and small…

PARIS

Louis Vuitton: “An opium den of a collection, with sensuous cheongsam dresses, sparkling sequin obi sashes, lace fans, beaded fringe and orchid-print numbers, not to mention the kitschy backdrop of beaded curtains and tiger statues.”

Alexander McQueen: “Unenviably tasked with succeeding a designer as provocative, stimulating, and beloved as Alexander “Lee” McQueen, Sarah Burton tackled the spring collection with a quiet ferocity.”

Lanvin: “If 50+ looks can inspire a girl to change her ways, save money and treat herself to something fantastic, then fashion is doing its job.”

Rick Owens: “By toning down his aggro-dark effects and embracing a new serenity, Rick Owens let rip the elegance at the core of his underground muse.”

Givenchy: “In the season’s most elegant nod to punk, Riccardo Tisci’s collection for Givenchy was zipped up, down, across and every which way.”

NEW YORK

Calvin Klein: “After seasons of academic explorations of tricky geometric cuts and the types of silhouettes that really only work on gallerists-of-a-certain-age, Francisco Costa nailed it with scintillatingly spare, sensuously subtle silhouettes.”

Ohne Titel: “With each collection, Ohne Titel’s indie profile gets progressively higher. Judging by the crowd at their spring show, designers Flora Gil and Alexa Adams are drawing some prominent peeps in the biz.”

Zero + Maria Cornejo: “Some call her a latter-day hippie, but Maria Cornejo is also a gracious hostess. She always delivers a civilized affair when it comes to her Zero label.”

Patrik Ervell: “Stacked bundles of the Financial Times provided a makeshift runway at Patrik Ervell. And it made for a witty commentary on the current economic climate.”

Camilla Staerk: “Camilla Staerk’s minimal presentation was another chic exercise in restraint: thirteen looks in black-and-white, inspired by French interior designer Andrée Putman.”

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