In the season’s most elegant nod to punk, Riccardo Tisci’s collection for Givenchy was zipped up, down, across and every which way. Chunky zippers even replaced seams and arm holes, but perhaps the most interesting of his zipper adventures were those that intersected to form a cross on the fronts and backs of jackets.

While the show opened with a palette of black and white, it soon gave way to leopard print—and lots of it. The combination is not for the timid, but then Tisci has never shied away from risky style moves. The cropped vest, which he showed repeatedly, hinted at an abstract, androgynous silhouette, and there were plenty of other examples of classic men’s tailoring worked simply in black or white chiffon. But Tisci, even when he puts women in menswear, can never stay out of the boudoir for long. Before the show was over, ruffles and more chiffons had crept in to sweeten up the hardwear.