When Junya Watanabe takes on an idea—denim, military, punk or African—he really runs with it. Usually the interpretation is so successfully that it leaves little room for anyone else to approach the subject without comparison. For spring, he took a cue from his last men’s show and tackled the surprisingly light theme of nautical, transporting us to Biarritz or the Côte d’Azur.
Stripes of all stripes dominated the collection: long dresses over dropped shorts and trousers (reminiscent of old-timey seaside bathers); chiffon sailor prints; linen duster coats; Edwardian men’s bib-front shirts; and crushed straw boater hats atop shocks of acid-colored wigs and opaque white masks (held in place by a bit in the girl’s mouth, though not in the S&M way). But best of all were the striped chiffon dresses with strips of bright-colored lace worked into necklines that ended the show, worn effortlessly over long black skirts with socks and lace-ups. If you are heading to the south of France next summer, Junya Watanabe has you covered.