Some call her a latter-day hippie, but Maria Cornejo is also a gracious hostess. She always delivers a civilized affair when it comes to her Zero label, both on and off the catwalk. At her spring show, as usual, there was no hectic crush at the door, no clambering for seats, just a lot of smiles on the climb up to the airy gallery-like venue (Milk Studios could learn a thing or two from team Cornejo).

But don’t let the mellow-yellow mood fool you. Cornejo has become a powerhouse player, even if she doesn’t flaunt it—and her heavyweight front row says it all. Not many designers can have Stefano Tonchi and Sally Singer sitting opposite each other.

This season the Cornejo magic came as subtle tribal-print dresses that added a playful touch to her familiar silhouettes—nothing groundbreaking, but covetable to say the least. Another breath of fresh air came in the expanded men’s offerings, which included some fantastic blazers with cut-out lapels paired with shorts and short pants. We love a bit of leg on a boy, and with the loose construction, it’s the perfect attire to go from a frolic in the woods to a business meeting in the city.