Yohji Yamamoto has never given a poop about trends, so what’s with all the fuss over Y-3’s black-heavy spring collection? If anything, all the sarong side-tie action, excessive man-midriff (happy trail included), and Madonna/B-girl chain-and-pearls combo looked a little uncomfortable. But the rest of it—madcap velveteen suits, a ruffle-back silk jacket that looks like it was washed in ectoplasm, Humpty Dumpty’s sharkskin trousers—was a treat. As words printed on vests and T-shirts said: Open your eyes, door, sides, legs, heart, and mouth. We might have switch the order a little.

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