What started off as a reissue of greatest hits for Tim Hamilton has quickly evolved into its own proper collection, a sporty counterpoint to his more conceptual forays into menswear—with its own unique ethos. And at the presentation, that ethos was mostly tuned into a good party. Perhaps it was the good weather, the thumping disco soundtrack or the fact that this is Tim’s sole outing in New York, but this felt more like after-hours at Don Hill’s than the usual gallery setup with stone-faced models on pedestals. Tim’s boys were just chilling out in loose formations, drink in hand, swaggering suggestively, some flirting shamelessly with editors. “Well,” said Tim, “if I had to stand for two hours while getting sized up, I would definitely need a drink. Besides, it makes them easier to work with!”

The collection was a focused elaboration on what Tim does best, slightly subversive American sportswear. The highlight was the impeccable spring jackets, with hi-tech materials handled expertly and tailored into luxurious staples. Proportion was also key, with numerous tunic-length hoodies and anoraks, a play on the slightly Moroccan influence that’s been popping up in menswear.

Tim also had a few arty tricks up his sleeve. In addition to collaborating with Collier Schorr, whose video captured the collection in motion on all sorts of nubile boys, he enlisted Kalup Linzy. The performance-art chanteuse, straight from Russia, serenaded the models like a soulful version of The Fabulous Baker Boys, while circling the boys, heels in hand. “I’ve been a huge fan for a long time,” Tim told me after the show. “And this seemed like the perfect way to shake up the usual run-of-the-mill thing.”