Don’t look for the powdered wigs and 19th-century French symbolist poets of Robert Geller’s last show. For spring, he was looking at a far less distant past. A wall of monitors formed the backdrop, looping footage from the student riots of the sixties and early-seventies. It might also have been a nod to the 1975 performance-art piece Media Burn by Ant Farm. That obscure reference aside, Geller turned his attention to what he does best: sharp, modern sportswear with a dapper edge. As a jumping off point, the spirit of ‘68 student protests seemed to inspire the military fatigues, olive macs, bomber jackets and pleated trousers. Flashes of red lent a proto-communist feel as well, bringing back the rush of his Cloak days.
Geller’s signature palette of jewel tones added a great pop to the fatigues, which looked ready to storm the streets—a few pre-washed denim pieces showed just how ready. While we admit we did miss some of the theatrics and waifish lords of last season while perusing the collection backstage, there’s no question Robbie is one of menswear’s top talents.