Whereas Marcus Wainwright and David Neville went a bit spacey for their women’s collection earlier in the day, they kept it strictly tellurian for men’s, starting with a palette of blues, ochres, not-quite-blacks, safety orange, and muted citrus. But this is for spring, when it’s okay to risk it with Pantone-approved hues.

The collection was thematically eclectic, too, a combination of military and workwear. Silhouettes were long loose and untucked. Trousers were often made of silk, but somehow replicated the texture of your standard Levi’s jeans. Patchwork coats and denim trenches gave a highbrow twist to the fabrics of a million uniforms. And therein lies the irony: these were blue-collar clothes re-imagined for the more blue-blooded.