Siki Im

There was a slightly Marrakech, desert-caravan vibe to Siki Im’s fantastic spring 2011 men’s collection— which I barely caught running straight from the plane. I thought how much smarter I would have looked in his breathy, sand-toned layers—knee-length linen tunics and airy blazers—that are just asking for a sweaty, flushed complexion. The overall effect was Lawrence-of-Arabia-goes-to-the-basketball-court.

The trick was that it all looked easy and functional, not mannered at all. Even sheer blazers and macs were utilitarian—as if mosquito nets were wrapped around the body for protection. The relaxed silhouette also showed that dropped crotches aren’t going anywhere.

Another standout was the headgear, which, from the front, looked like a backwards baseball cap, but which was really a type of desert hood. Perfect for that Saharan journey, but we suspect it’ll be making numerous stops in countless editorials before then.

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