Ever the innovator and avant-gardist, Raf Simons surprised the audience with a pared-down collection of mostly white or black garments and slim silhouettes for spring. Proportion and volume were key, as sleeveless coats and wide trousers were cut into elegant and inherently modern clothes. The statement came in the form of oversized and brightly colored zippers placed on the backs of coats and jackets, flipping the normal focus from the front to the back. Referencing early Martin Margiela, the collection also offered glimpses of 90s’ minimalism by the likes of Helmut Lang and Jil Sander.
Simons successfully moved away from last season’s overtly conceptual collection with an outing more inline with creating commercially viable clothes—with a twist, of course. And if you can look past the rubber shirts and leather skirts worn over shorts, you’ll find some exquisitely realized pieces.