“Lessness” read the invitation to the Dior Homme show. Well, that’s exactly what Kris Van Assche delivered, as his groomed, boyish models circled the white runway in endless variations on spare, soft tailoring—mainly in a simplified palette of black and white, but also greige, cream and midnight blue. The asymmetrical jacket that morphed into a cape and the finale of Asian models suggested an ode to 80s-era Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto.

But where the show lacked sexual energy, hedonism awaited en route to Ann Demeulemeester’s show, as the writhing, grinding floats of the Gay Pride Parade forced editors to exit their cars and continue by foot.