Haider Ackermann Men’s

Haider Ackermann’s much-anticipated men’s debut proved to be the crown jewel of Pitti Uomo in Florence. Of course, for a designer best known for treading the chromosomal divide, the show proved less a departure than a subtle subversion of his signature androgyny. Invoking a pantheon of fops through the ages—Rimbaud, Wilde, Swinton—Ackermann took his audience on a sumptuous journey through the Orient. Fittingly titled Opium, the Hefneresque collection unfolded as a languorous piling of lush fabrics, from silks to iridescent jacquards. Yet the biggest surprise may be that the usually subdued Haider can put on quite a production. Gathered in an abandoned palazzo, guests filed into gilded maharajah chairs with lush chandeliers overhead, then serenaded by model-slash-crooner Jamie Bochert on piano. It was a decadent spectacle straight out of a Symbolist’s vision, and a stark contrast to his more monastic women’s offerings in Paris. Perhaps a sign of things to come?


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