Best known for his meticulously tailored suits and shrunken high-waters, Thom Browne is no stranger to playing with the gender divide, habitually spicing up gentlemen’s classics with feminine flair: generous beading, tulle overlays, even a ball skirt or two. Now, after a few seasons of flirting with the other side and teasing us with promises of a future women’s collection, Monsieur Browne is finally making the leap. As he tells WWD, his new women’s capsule range for fall will be a subtle evolution from his men’s line, focusing on suiting, outerwear and traditional men’s fabrics, i.e. flannel and cashmere. We predict the result will be both refined and perverse, sort of like those villainous lesbians in old Hitchcock thrillers—we’re thinking of the maid in Rebecca. As fate would have it, this ascetic mood is perfectly in tune with fall’s new austerity and fascination with all things transgender.