Haider Ackermann

Launched in 2002, Haider Ackermann has been putting out exquisitely, dramatically draped pieces ever since. For fall, his color palette of browns, blacks and gentle grays emerged more muted than usual, as if to let the shapes hog the spotlight and the fabrics, which undulated like shavings off a sharpened pencil, completely seduce us. Topped with dramatic collars, some of the jackets were so three-dimensional they could have moonlighted as origami, while long dresses billowed around the legs, thanks to slits up to there. Other signatures included black skull caps-cum-neckwarmers that looked like the kind of headgear Woody Allen wore as a human spermatozoa in Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Sex (But Were Afraid to Ask). And although the collection was highly sophisticated, Ackermann ended with a racy “which one is not like the others,” a see-through lacy number. With most of the fabric located at the waist, you could say he went out with nipples blazing.

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