It being Valentine’s Day and all, Yohji Yamamoto ran (literally) fast and loose with “prisoner of love” metaphors for Y-3. After models sprinted down the runway mid-show, others soon emerged in masks and prison stripes, jangling oversized key rings. Slogans like “On parole” and “Three legs race” hinted at the bigger-than-V-Day picture—that, given his recent financial troubles, Yamamoto wasn’t in a celebratory mood. Instead, he went back to his roots and turned out a great collection of complex proportions and asymmetry, with coats taking center stage. The notion of protection was reinforced in the finale as Yamamoto, a black belt in karate, took on a male boxer and slugged him, only to be knocked out by a woman.

Leave a comment