Forty-five minutes late and facing a pit full of hissing photographers, Thakoon felt tardy in other ways, too. Nearly every fur look in the collection, which overflowed with pelts, seemed reminiscent of Rick Owens’ work for Revillon, while the slim dhoti trousers were a little too close to Riccardo Tisci for comfort and the ruffles on shorts and dresses brought to mind Marc Jacobs’ spring 2010 collection. What seemed an attempt to refine his First Lady-friendly femininity came off as uninspired, and his usually brilliant prints were few and far between, lost in a torpid sea of grays, creams and sad blues. A bold tiger print was the only flash of his past graphic strength, which, along with cute booties, saved the show from being one more American designer’s stew made from European designers’ ingredients.

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